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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.